Wave Hill

New York City is so much more than the skyscrapers of Manhattan (although I do love them). I recently found it is possible to get to a place in the upper reaches of the Bronx via subway, and feel as if I had taken a trip out of the city to upstate New York for the day. Wave Hill is a public garden overlooking the Hudson River (and across the river to the Palisades of New Jersey) in Riverdale. I visited there this autumn, taking the #1 train to the end of the line (West 242 Street) and being transported to Wave Hill by a free shuttle van that picks up near the subway at 10 minutes past the hour. You can also get there via Metro North, taking the Hudson Line to Riverdale and being picked up by a free shuttle bus.

Wave Hill was built in 1843 as the country home of a NYC attorney. Teddy Roosevelt’s family rented the estate during the summers of 1870 and 1871, and the city boy’s exposure to such beautiful natural scenes no doubt inspired his later love for the outdoors, leading to the creating of the National Park system. Mark Twain later leased the estate from 1900-1903, and conductor Arturo Toscanini lived there from 1942-1945. In 1960, the family who owned the estate gave it to the city of New York, and Wave Hill was incorporated as an non-profit organization. It is now open year-round, except for holidays, with shorter hours during the colder months and longer ones during the summer ones.

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Walking to the welcome center, it is hard to believe you are still within the five boroughs of New York City.

The Visitor’s Center has local items (like honey of different colors depending on which flowers the bees were supping from) for sale, and a very upscale restroom (I was impressed by the golden sinks and fancy wallpaper!).

You can go into the various greenhouses as well as exploring the vast landscaped gardens.

 

There are many different places to sit and enjoy the quiet and the scenery.

There were lily ponds, and several cats roaming the grounds.

The feeling, the sounds, and even the scent of the air, varied from area to area within the large estate.

The most spectacular viewpoints, of course, are those overlooking the mighty Hudson.

They have a lovely cafe on the grounds, featuring local farm-to-table fare (on the right above is avocado toast with lovely radish slices on top).

After several hours at Wave Hill, I was reminded of the concept of “forest bathing” – the idea of walking among trees and nature as a health practice like going to a spa. (Learn more here.) I certainly felt cleansed, mentally and physically, after strolling through all the gorgeous dense trees and gardens.

I’m sure they change these maps out seasonally, but here is the autumn one to give you an idea of the layout of Wave Hill and some of the details. You can also find plenty of information to plan your trip at their website.

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City Island, the Bronx

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Most of us lucky enough to live in New York City love the aspects of the city that make it unique – the tall buildings, the pace, the endless array of entertainment. However, we may also seek out a chance of pace every now and then, travelling to the Caribbean, the Berkshires, or the New England coast. What I recently discovered is that it is possible to take a mini-vacation to what seems to be a small New England fishing village – but without leaving the five boroughs. As I remarked in my posts about Coney Island and Governors Island you can feel as though you have left the city for the price of a swipe on your Metrocard – and that is true for a trip to City Island in the Bronx.

Driving to City Island is easy, but to get there via public transportation (as I did), take the 6 Pelham Bay subway train to the last stop, Pelham Bay Parkway and catch the Bx29 bus for a quick ride to City Island Avenue.

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Originally settled by the Lenape and later by Europeans in 1654, it was connected to the mainland by ferry until the building of a bridge in 1873. From about 1860 to 1980, City Island was a center for boat building and yachting, and three yacht clubs remain on the island to this day.

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City Island Avenue cuts down the middle of the island, lined with quaint shops, art galleries, and restaurants. At every cross street, you can look in either direction and generally see a block of houses or low-rise apartments leading to the water.

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On the first Friday of every month, there is a free trolley to pick up visitors from the subway stop and take them to City Island Avenue. They give out a discount card valid for that evening, and often shops and galleries will have free treats to hand out along the avenue.

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City Island Avenue is just over a mile long, so an easy and pleasant walk. At the very end, when it dead ends at the water, there are two competing seafood restaurants with ocean views.

 

City Island has a resident population of just over 4000 people, many associated with nearby Albert Einstein College of Medicine. The brilliant neurologist and author Oliver Sacks lived on City Island until his recent death, and some of the film based on his book Awakenings was shot on the island. City Island is a real estate bargain (due in no small part to its remoteness) – houses selling for under $300/sq ft, on average, and a three bedroom house can be rented for about $3000/month.

Alice Payne wrote about the history of City Island in her book Tales of the Clamdiggers. Clamdiggers are people born on City Island (Musselsuckers are those living on the island born elsewhere!). The rest of us are, I suppose, simply visitors, ready to take a break from the everyday and experience one of the most unique corners of the great city of New York.