Outdoor activities in NYC, Summer of 2020

Since March of 2020, New York City has been fighting a war against Covid-19, and we have had to adjust many of the details of our daily lives. I am working on a post about what I witnessed during the months of lockdown (see it here), but this post focuses on what summer activities we can now do safely. Of course, our parks remain a respite from the city, as they were even during lockdown, but with so many indoor activities understandably closed now for safety reasons, what are other outdoor adventures we can still experience? In the past few weeks I have taken the ferry to Rockaway Beach, visited Governors Island, and walked the High Line park. All three experiences, while very worthwhile, are different from what they were in the past, and all have prioritized safety and continuing to keep New York’s infection rate under control.

I have written before about traveling to Rockaway Beach (see that post here). For the trip this month, I used Citibike to get to the Wall Street ferry station and back. The ferry now has an app and you can load tickets on the app before boarding, eliminating touching paper tickets or handing them to others (find the app and instructions here). Riders keep six feet apart from each other while lining up to board, and masks are required at all times. In fact, even on the top deck with the wind blowing, mask wearing was constantly enforced by the ferry staff. When you get off the ferry, you are a few blocks’ walk to the beach. While I did see people take off masks at the ocean, mask wearing was required on the boardwalk. There are a few places to eat open on the boardwalk, and although I didn’t try any, I did see social distancing was being enforced while waiting on line. The trip back involved a walk back to the ferry, a very pleasant ferry ride back to Manhattan, and then a Citibike home. For $2.75 each way, it’s a relatively easy way to get out of the city during these days when traveling is not recommended.

High Line Park, blissfully uncrowded

For months, the High Line Park was closed. Anyone who had been on it before the pandemic knew why – the park, while exceptionally lovely and unique, was always crowded. You can see a post from when the High Line had recently opened here. The park is only open now from Gansevoort Street to 23rd Street, reservations are required (get yours here), the park is only open from noon to 8 PM, and attendance is kept very low. That last difference is what makes it possible now to walk the High Line and almost experience it as a solitary stroll, delightful and unheard of before!

The sign above sums it up: masks are required, you only walk the park in one direction, and you should keep 6 feet of distance from others. There are dots everywhere demonstrating what six feet is. However, I had no problem keeping many multiples of six feet away from others. As you will see in the photos below, quite often it felt as though I had the High Line to myself.

Finally, I also went to Governors Island this month, which I have enjoyed many times before and blogged about here. Again, I took a Citibike to the ferry terminal. Reservations are required in advance and tickets were loaded to my phone (find out how to reserve here). If you are an IDNYC holder, the ferry is absolutely free. Reservations are limited to prevent crowding on the ferry, and you are required to reserve both your time to leave and your time to return. We waited for the ferry in designated circles six feet apart, and masks were required at all times. The ferry ride is short (unlike the one to the Rockaways). Once you get there, the island is huge compared to how many people they are allowing to visit at this point. Citibike stations exist at three places on the island, including one very close to the ferry terminal, so it is easy to bike to different places on the island as well as walk. When there, you truly feel as if you have gone far out of the city, even as you see extraordinary views of Lower Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty.

New York City has gone to extraordinary lengths to control this novel coronavirus – and to keep ourselves safe, we will likely need to adapt for some time yet. However, it is important to remember that while we miss so many things about our city, there are also many delightful summertime experiences that still beckon to us.

Halloween on Governors Island

I have written before about the experience of taking a short ferry ride from lower Manhattan and ending up on Governors Island, walking and biking around a little bit of country with killer views of iconic skyscrapers (read my previous report here). In addition, for years I have taken the drive up to the Historic Hudson Valley to see the Blaze, a massive display of carved illuminated jack o’ lanterns. This year I discovered, to my delight, that there is a Halloween ticketed event on Governors Island called Rise of the Jack O’ Lanterns (also held in other locations outside NYC) so of course I needed to check it out.

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This year the experience started October 18-20, and will conclude later this week (October 24-27). The ticket is timed for the ferry you will take over, and you aren’t allowed to get on an earlier or later ferry, so be on time! The earliest time slot is 6 PM, and the latest is 10:40. There tend to be discounts for later times, and of course some time slots are already sold out. The ferry leaves from the Battery Maritime Terminal, the same one that is used for regular ferries to Governors Island.

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At least in my opinion, some of the old houses left on Governors Island are a little creepy even during daylight hours, so being around them at night with mysterious music playing and thousands of illuminated jack o’ lanterns around is certainly enough to put you in the Halloween mood. I will say, though, that it is not particularly “scary,” so is appropriate for all ages.

All the jack o’ lanterns are hand-carved by artists out of real pumpkins, and the night I was there an artist was on site demonstrating the elaborate technique needed for such detailed compositions. Many are traditional spooky themes, but others reflect popular culture.

There were several in memoriam (see Luke Perry, above), plenty of Disney princesses and Game of Thrones tributes, as well as Harry Potter.

I loved the jack o’ lanterns themed to artists.

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I kept looking for a “She said yes!” jack o’ lantern near this one, but couldn’t find it. Erika, did you make it to the RISE and were you impressed?

The jack o’ lanterns are mostly on pillars raised up so that you can easily observe the details.

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One of the more surreal experiences on Governors Island is when you suddenly see the towers of lower Manhattan while immersed in this rural setting. Every now and then while viewing jack o’ lanterns I would glimpse One World Trade.

On the way back to the ferry there is an opportunity for unimpeded views of Lower Manhattan.  The views are terrific when seeing during the day on Governors Island, but the night time view is simply magical.

Those who don’t live in New York City might think that it’s difficult to experience a festive Halloween, but I definitely disagree! In addition to the RISE, Governors Island has trick-or-treating for children on October 26 (see details here). There are Halloween decorations all over the city, especially on townhouses (see a previous blog post on this topic here). The Cathedral of St. John the Divine has a marvelous Halloween Extravaganza every year that includes a scary silent movie accompanied by live organ music. And of course the famous Halloween parade takes over Greenwich Village the night of October 31.

I know I’m biased, but I do believe that New York City is the best and most fun place to live – any time of year!

Governors Island

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I wrote recently about Coney Island, and how easy it is to feel you are taking a mini-break from New York City without leaving the city itself. I recently spent a day on Governors Island, in some ways more disorienting (in a good way!) since you are simultaneously surrounded by nature and yet experiencing spectacular views of lower Manhattan, the Brooklyn Bridge, and the Statue of Liberty.

Governors Island sits a mere 800 yards away from Manhattan and is even closer to Brooklyn (400 yards). Originally reserved for the Governors of the New York Colony during British rule, the American Continental Army used it to their advantage and fired on the British from the island during the Revolutionary War. After American Independence, forts were built on the island for coastal protection, and Castle Williams (which is still standing) was later used to hold Confederate prisoners of war during the Civil War. When material dug out from Manhattan to create the first subway line was used to enlarge Governors Island, it became first an Army base and later one for the Coast Guard. By 1996, however, the Coast Guard had ceased to use the island, and it began to be redeveloped as a public park. Fort Jay and Castle Williams, as well as 22 acres of the island, have been declared a National Monument – the remaining 100 acres belong to the city and are in the middle of a ten year plan to revitalize Governors Island for use by the residents of New York.

Getting to Governors Island is somehow both easy and difficult. The ferry leaves from lower Manhattan (just north of the Staten Island Ferry terminal) on the hour starting at 10 AM, and leaves the island to return to Manhattan on the half hour. The cost is $2 roundtrip, but is free if you are a resident and have an idNYC card (if you are a resident and don’t have one, what are you waiting for? there are so many great discounts and benefits, check out the card here). The actual ferry ride is only seven minutes long, but if you miss one (as I did, slower than expected subway traffic on the 4 getting me there just a few minutes after the 10 AM ferry left) it’s a long wait.

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One entertaining thing to do in the area if you miss a ferry is to watch helicopters take off and land just north of the Battery Maritime Building.

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Once the ferry is ready to load, it only takes a few minutes before you are looking back at the Battery Maritime building as the ferry leaves lower Manhattan.

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Within a few minutes you arrive on Governors Island at Soissons Landing.

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The constant odd juxtaposition of quaint old buildings, green lawn, and spectacular views of the skyscrapers of lower Manhattan is disorienting, but in an exciting way.

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One view of Castle Williams.

If you pass the old historic buildings and follow the signs for the newest part of Governors Island Park, The Hills, you can find the longest slide in NYC, three stories tall and 57 feet long. My advice on a sunny day is to be sure you are wearing long pants – that metal slide gets HOT!

The Hills was constructed using so much landfill it would require 1806 subway cars to transport it. Much of it came from the demolition of some buildings and parking lots elsewhere on Governors Island. Some of the actual hills were created using pumice, because any heavier material would push the existing landfill into the harbor.

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A plaque marking the National Park Service site, Castle Williams, with fantastic views of lower Manhattan, which is just a few hundred yards away.

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Wonderful views of the Statue of Liberty can also be seen from the western edge of Governors Island.

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Ferries return on  the half hour, with the last ferry back at 6 during the week and 7 on the weekend.

Returning back to Manhattan, you can feel as though you have taken a trip to another country, one where you gazed at the city as though it was a movie backdrop or a mirage. I highly recommend taking the journey.  I found I appreciate the city so much more when I have seen it through a different angle – even one that technically lies within the city limits.  Governors Island is open daily during the summer season, which lasts roughly the end of May through the end of September. For more information check out their website here.