A day at QC NY Spa on Governors Island

I am always looking for new and enjoyable things to do in New York City, and also love a special spa experience (a favorite go-to is Aire Ancient Baths in Tribeca, but no photos allowed there!). So imagine my delight when I discovered there is a new day spa experience on Governors Island, a place already so special in that you feel as though you are in the country away from NYC, all the while experiencing incomparable views of lower Manhattan (see my previous blog post about Governors Island here). Having spent a lovely and unique day there recently, I can say that the experience is highly recommended. Here’s what my experience was like.

In my previous post about Governors Island, I describe what it is like to get to the island, and the process is no different to get there for a day at QCNY. The spa requires advanced reservations, and when you reserve they send you a link to reserve your ferry trip there at no cost (to get there usually requires a small fee unless you show your IDNYC as a resident). The cancellation policy is fairly generous, allowing you to cancel any time up to the time of your appointment, and there are several packages at different costs depending on how many hours you wish to stay and whether you want to add on a massage. My own recommendation is to get the all-day pass, as there is plenty to do for multiple hours, and that the massage – although delightful – is not necessary to enjoy the day. Currently they have only a few massage treatment rooms so booking that well in advance is important, although they are expanding and will have additional space soon.

When you get off the ferry, you will see a sign straight ahead directing you to the right, and it’s a very short walk to the spa, which is well signposted. After a quick checkin, you are given a key on a wristband with your locker number on it. Payment is taken in advance so that leaving is easy – you simply turn in the key. At this point everything is covered except for any food or drink (more about that later!) which can be paid for by any credit card or apple pay, no cash. In the locker, you find a robe, slippers, and a towel in a themed tote bag. Most people wear the robe and slippers over their swimsuits, and carry the bag. You are absolutely allowed to keep your phone with you, take a book, or snacks, and all of those can be carried in the tote. When you are in a sauna or pool, there are always plenty of hooks to hang your robe and tote. I always put my slippers inside the tote if taking them off to go in a pool, because they really do all look alike.

There are three main spa areas, a dry Wellness Path, a wet Aquatic Path, and the outdoor pools with views of lower Manhattan. The Wellness Path is the first you experience as you come down from the locker rooms. The first room has individual beds to lounge on with large infrared lamps above, which are supposed to be good for collagen production and reducing inflammation. The next room is a olfactory sensory experience with four different scents to experience, and you are encouraged to write in journals words that each scent bring to mind.

Next, there is a dry sauna, the Mountain Stube, and you are encouraged to go in to open your pores, then use the facial scrub provided, followed by a cool wet washcloth to remove the scrub. In the Fireplace Room there is a moisturizing facial mask to apply while you relax. All these extras are included, and twice while I was at the spa an employee came around with complimentary facial and eye masks as well.

Next to the Mountain Stube sauna is a Cocoon room, where you can swing and relax in these wicker hanging cocoons while listening to bird song.

The Jukebox Room plays classic rock (I heard Talking Heads a few times!) and designed as a place to relax, talk to your companion if you aren’t alone, and rest with a facial mask if you happened to get that recently.

The Upside Down Room provides a way to look at the world in a different way, and is a lot of fun to relax in. If you get a photo taken as I did, you can flip it and appear to be resting on the ceiling!

The Close and Yet So Far sauna had stunning views of the city, looking over the outside pools.

Going down another level to the aquatic experience, I took fewer photos there because of all the steam and water! However, there were multiple steam saunas, each decorated and scented to go along with a given theme – one was Scottish, another like being inside as a storm raged outside, and my favorite, A Thousand and One Nights, with lovely music and feeling a bit like being in a Turkish bath. There was a steam shower, a foot bath area with bubbling tubs, and body scrub provided to exfoliate before lying on a steel table and having water flow over you in a Vichy bath. On this same level was an area with different facial moisturizers and a large screen showing you how to do a facial massage.

The outdoor pools!!!! As much as I loved the entire spa, I think these were my favorites. It is surreal to be lounging in heated outdoor pools while looking at spectacular – and close! – views of the Manhattan skyline. There are two main pool areas, both of which have multi-levels and various places to rest and turn on bubbling action. There is one section with music piped underwater that you can only hear if your ears go below the water line. Behind the pools are rows of loungers and chairs.

If you do happen to have a massage booked, that area is just off the locker room area, and features a lounge area to rest before or after your treatment, as well as a generous supply of snacks.

And what of food and drink, if you are making a day of it? There is plenty of water infused with citrus or mint, and apple cider, on every level of the spa, and apples and coffee are also complimentary. An employee might come around at some point offering a healthy treat such as slices of apple dusted with cinnamon. There there are also two main areas to order food and drink – and a selection of wines and fun cocktails! The food and alcoholic beverages are for purchase, and the costs are about what you would expect for a facility that knows it has a captive audience. There are a series of hefty salads (the one I had featured field greens, pecans, and goat cheese), as well as a charcuterie and cheese tray. I will note that later in the day I heard people trying to order food and some of the selections were no longer available, so keep that in mind and order lunch on the earlier side (needless to say, it is not easy to get supplies to Governors Island!). I sampled two of the cocktails – an Aperol Spritz with the salad and a Cosmo later with the charcuterie platter – and both were generous pours and delicious. You are not allowed to come and go from the spa, though, so don’t plan on leaving and getting something from one of the food trucks on the Island and coming back.

I’d like to add that the spa is open year-round, and the outdoor pools are heated so you really could enjoy even on very chilly days. A visit where it rained the entire day would make the outdoor pools less appealing, but everything else is inside. The generous cancellation policy ensures that people don’t need to worry about the forecast when making a reservation. I happen to love immersive theatre (I wrote a blog post about Punchdrunk several years ago) and the thing that struck me while I was at QCNY Spa was that this was the first spa experience I have ever had that feels in some ways like immersive theatre. I believe it could be enjoyed solo (especially if you brought a book) but is ideally suited for a day spent as a couple or for a group of friends. As always, New York City keeps providing new things to do and experience, and this is one I will definitely revisit.

Outdoor activities in NYC, Summer of 2020

Since March of 2020, New York City has been fighting a war against Covid-19, and we have had to adjust many of the details of our daily lives. I am working on a post about what I witnessed during the months of lockdown (see it here), but this post focuses on what summer activities we can now do safely. Of course, our parks remain a respite from the city, as they were even during lockdown, but with so many indoor activities understandably closed now for safety reasons, what are other outdoor adventures we can still experience? In the past few weeks I have taken the ferry to Rockaway Beach, visited Governors Island, and walked the High Line park. All three experiences, while very worthwhile, are different from what they were in the past, and all have prioritized safety and continuing to keep New York’s infection rate under control.

I have written before about traveling to Rockaway Beach (see that post here). For the trip this month, I used Citibike to get to the Wall Street ferry station and back. The ferry now has an app and you can load tickets on the app before boarding, eliminating touching paper tickets or handing them to others (find the app and instructions here). Riders keep six feet apart from each other while lining up to board, and masks are required at all times. In fact, even on the top deck with the wind blowing, mask wearing was constantly enforced by the ferry staff. When you get off the ferry, you are a few blocks’ walk to the beach. While I did see people take off masks at the ocean, mask wearing was required on the boardwalk. There are a few places to eat open on the boardwalk, and although I didn’t try any, I did see social distancing was being enforced while waiting on line. The trip back involved a walk back to the ferry, a very pleasant ferry ride back to Manhattan, and then a Citibike home. For $2.75 each way, it’s a relatively easy way to get out of the city during these days when traveling is not recommended.

High Line Park, blissfully uncrowded

For months, the High Line Park was closed. Anyone who had been on it before the pandemic knew why – the park, while exceptionally lovely and unique, was always crowded. You can see a post from when the High Line had recently opened here. The park is only open now from Gansevoort Street to 23rd Street, reservations are required (get yours here), the park is only open from noon to 8 PM, and attendance is kept very low. That last difference is what makes it possible now to walk the High Line and almost experience it as a solitary stroll, delightful and unheard of before!

The sign above sums it up: masks are required, you only walk the park in one direction, and you should keep 6 feet of distance from others. There are dots everywhere demonstrating what six feet is. However, I had no problem keeping many multiples of six feet away from others. As you will see in the photos below, quite often it felt as though I had the High Line to myself.

Finally, I also went to Governors Island this month, which I have enjoyed many times before and blogged about here. Again, I took a Citibike to the ferry terminal. Reservations are required in advance and tickets were loaded to my phone (find out how to reserve here). If you are an IDNYC holder, the ferry is absolutely free. Reservations are limited to prevent crowding on the ferry, and you are required to reserve both your time to leave and your time to return. We waited for the ferry in designated circles six feet apart, and masks were required at all times. The ferry ride is short (unlike the one to the Rockaways). Once you get there, the island is huge compared to how many people they are allowing to visit at this point. Citibike stations exist at three places on the island, including one very close to the ferry terminal, so it is easy to bike to different places on the island as well as walk. When there, you truly feel as if you have gone far out of the city, even as you see extraordinary views of Lower Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty.

New York City has gone to extraordinary lengths to control this novel coronavirus – and to keep ourselves safe, we will likely need to adapt for some time yet. However, it is important to remember that while we miss so many things about our city, there are also many delightful summertime experiences that still beckon to us.

Halloween on Governors Island

I have written before about the experience of taking a short ferry ride from lower Manhattan and ending up on Governors Island, walking and biking around a little bit of country with killer views of iconic skyscrapers (read my previous report here). In addition, for years I have taken the drive up to the Historic Hudson Valley to see the Blaze, a massive display of carved illuminated jack o’ lanterns. This year I discovered, to my delight, that there is a Halloween ticketed event on Governors Island called Rise of the Jack O’ Lanterns (also held in other locations outside NYC) so of course I needed to check it out.

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This year the experience started October 18-20, and will conclude later this week (October 24-27). The ticket is timed for the ferry you will take over, and you aren’t allowed to get on an earlier or later ferry, so be on time! The earliest time slot is 6 PM, and the latest is 10:40. There tend to be discounts for later times, and of course some time slots are already sold out. The ferry leaves from the Battery Maritime Terminal, the same one that is used for regular ferries to Governors Island.

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At least in my opinion, some of the old houses left on Governors Island are a little creepy even during daylight hours, so being around them at night with mysterious music playing and thousands of illuminated jack o’ lanterns around is certainly enough to put you in the Halloween mood. I will say, though, that it is not particularly “scary,” so is appropriate for all ages.

All the jack o’ lanterns are hand-carved by artists out of real pumpkins, and the night I was there an artist was on site demonstrating the elaborate technique needed for such detailed compositions. Many are traditional spooky themes, but others reflect popular culture.

There were several in memoriam (see Luke Perry, above), plenty of Disney princesses and Game of Thrones tributes, as well as Harry Potter.

I loved the jack o’ lanterns themed to artists.

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I kept looking for a “She said yes!” jack o’ lantern near this one, but couldn’t find it. Erika, did you make it to the RISE and were you impressed?

The jack o’ lanterns are mostly on pillars raised up so that you can easily observe the details.

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One of the more surreal experiences on Governors Island is when you suddenly see the towers of lower Manhattan while immersed in this rural setting. Every now and then while viewing jack o’ lanterns I would glimpse One World Trade.

On the way back to the ferry there is an opportunity for unimpeded views of Lower Manhattan.  The views are terrific when seeing during the day on Governors Island, but the night time view is simply magical.

Those who don’t live in New York City might think that it’s difficult to experience a festive Halloween, but I definitely disagree! In addition to the RISE, Governors Island has trick-or-treating for children on October 26 (see details here). There are Halloween decorations all over the city, especially on townhouses (see a previous blog post on this topic here). The Cathedral of St. John the Divine has a marvelous Halloween Extravaganza every year that includes a scary silent movie accompanied by live organ music. And of course the famous Halloween parade takes over Greenwich Village the night of October 31.

I know I’m biased, but I do believe that New York City is the best and most fun place to live – any time of year!

Governors Island

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I wrote recently about Coney Island, and how easy it is to feel you are taking a mini-break from New York City without leaving the city itself. I recently spent a day on Governors Island, in some ways more disorienting (in a good way!) since you are simultaneously surrounded by nature and yet experiencing spectacular views of lower Manhattan, the Brooklyn Bridge, and the Statue of Liberty.

Governors Island sits a mere 800 yards away from Manhattan and is even closer to Brooklyn (400 yards). Originally reserved for the Governors of the New York Colony during British rule, the American Continental Army used it to their advantage and fired on the British from the island during the Revolutionary War. After American Independence, forts were built on the island for coastal protection, and Castle Williams (which is still standing) was later used to hold Confederate prisoners of war during the Civil War. When material dug out from Manhattan to create the first subway line was used to enlarge Governors Island, it became first an Army base and later one for the Coast Guard. By 1996, however, the Coast Guard had ceased to use the island, and it began to be redeveloped as a public park. Fort Jay and Castle Williams, as well as 22 acres of the island, have been declared a National Monument – the remaining 100 acres belong to the city and are in the middle of a ten year plan to revitalize Governors Island for use by the residents of New York.

Getting to Governors Island is somehow both easy and difficult. The ferry leaves from lower Manhattan (just north of the Staten Island Ferry terminal) on the hour starting at 10 AM, and leaves the island to return to Manhattan on the half hour. The cost is $2 roundtrip, but is free if you are a resident and have an idNYC card (if you are a resident and don’t have one, what are you waiting for? there are so many great discounts and benefits, check out the card here). The actual ferry ride is only seven minutes long, but if you miss one (as I did, slower than expected subway traffic on the 4 getting me there just a few minutes after the 10 AM ferry left) it’s a long wait.

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One entertaining thing to do in the area if you miss a ferry is to watch helicopters take off and land just north of the Battery Maritime Building.

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Once the ferry is ready to load, it only takes a few minutes before you are looking back at the Battery Maritime building as the ferry leaves lower Manhattan.

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Within a few minutes you arrive on Governors Island at Soissons Landing.

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The constant odd juxtaposition of quaint old buildings, green lawn, and spectacular views of the skyscrapers of lower Manhattan is disorienting, but in an exciting way.

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One view of Castle Williams.

If you pass the old historic buildings and follow the signs for the newest part of Governors Island Park, The Hills, you can find the longest slide in NYC, three stories tall and 57 feet long. My advice on a sunny day is to be sure you are wearing long pants – that metal slide gets HOT!

The Hills was constructed using so much landfill it would require 1806 subway cars to transport it. Much of it came from the demolition of some buildings and parking lots elsewhere on Governors Island. Some of the actual hills were created using pumice, because any heavier material would push the existing landfill into the harbor.

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A plaque marking the National Park Service site, Castle Williams, with fantastic views of lower Manhattan, which is just a few hundred yards away.

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Wonderful views of the Statue of Liberty can also be seen from the western edge of Governors Island.

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Ferries return on  the half hour, with the last ferry back at 6 during the week and 7 on the weekend.

Returning back to Manhattan, you can feel as though you have taken a trip to another country, one where you gazed at the city as though it was a movie backdrop or a mirage. I highly recommend taking the journey.  I found I appreciate the city so much more when I have seen it through a different angle – even one that technically lies within the city limits.  Governors Island is open daily during the summer season, which lasts roughly the end of May through the end of September. For more information check out their website here.